The Northern Territory is a place like no other. Vast landscapes, extraordinary wildlife and colours that seem almost too beautiful to be real. This road trip was an unforgettable journey through one of Australia's most spectacular regions — with a few little luxuries along the way, of course!
Leaving Darwin
With our flight arriving in Darwin just after midday, we decided to collect our hire car and head straight for Kakadu — a drive of approximately three and a half hours.
Along the way, we stopped for a late lunch at the Bark Hut Inn, a wonderfully quirky Northern Territory roadhouse filled with local memorabilia and character. It was the perfect place for an old-fashioned burger, a chance to soak up the atmosphere, and our first taste of life in the Top End. Things really are a little different up here!
Staying in Kakadu
Cooinda Lodge Kakadu was our home for 3 nights. This was such a great place to stay, as it was central to so many attractions, and it was also the meeting point for the Yellow River Cruise - and if you do the highly recommended sunrise tour, then you don’t have too far to go.
There was an array of accommodation options, but we chose the lodge rooms. They were clean, comfortable and importantly - air conditioned!
The swimming pools were a welcome sight at the end of a hard day sight seeing, and the beer garden is a really nice way to just chill and watch the colours change as the sun sets. The Beer Garden was also host to local musicians, and with food trucks lined up, there were also other options to the extensive bistro menu. If you were keen for something a little fancier, Mimi’s restaurant is indoors, and air-conditioned.
We have stayed at Cooinda Lodge twice now, and will continue to stay there on future trips - it may not be a 5 star hotel - but it does give just the right amount of luxury to blend in with this amazing part of the world. If you are an Accor member - your benefits continue on here too - it is always nice to get free drinks, and a discounted food bill!
Cahills Crossing
Forget the staged crocodile-jumping cruises closer to Darwin — if you want to see saltwater crocodiles in their natural habitat, Cahills Crossing is the place to go!
Located on the East Alligator River, on the edge of Arnhem Land, this remarkable crossing is famous for its incredible concentration of crocodiles. From the elevated viewing platforms, you can safely watch these enormous reptiles gathering in the water, waiting for their next meal.
We counted more than 20 crocodiles, some floating almost motionless, others lurking near the crossing. Watching them in their natural environment was absolutely fascinating.
The changing tides make this an especially interesting place to visit, as fish moving with the water attract hungry crocodiles.
An absolute must-see, and without question one of the highlights of our Kakadu adventure!
Ubirr Walk
A short drive from Cahills Crossing brings you to Ubirr, one of Kakadu National Park's most remarkable walking experiences.
This relatively easy one-kilometre circuit winds through ancient rock formations and past galleries of Aboriginal rock art, offering a fascinating glimpse into the stories and traditions of the region's Traditional Owners. Although the walk itself is short, it's worth allowing at least an hour to appreciate the artwork and its significance.
For those feeling a little more adventurous, there's the option to climb a short but steep section of rocky terrain to the Nadab Lookout. The reward is breathtaking — sweeping 360-degree views across the surrounding floodplains and Arnhem Land.
My parents, both in their seventies at the time, were initially a little hesitant about the climb. But with sturdy footwear, a little encouragement and plenty of determination, they made it to the top. And I'm so glad they did. The views were absolutely worth the effort!
One piece of advice: I wouldn't recommend tackling this walk in the middle of the day. The heat can be intense, and there's very little shade in some sections. Late afternoon is a wonderful time to visit, particularly as the landscape takes on a beautiful golden glow.
Comfortable walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water are essential.
Yellow Water Cruise
The absolute highlight of our Northern Territory adventure was the sunrise cruise on Yellow Water. Nothing quite prepares you for the experience of watching and listening as the wetlands slowly awaken to a new day.
Our morning began in complete darkness, meeting at Cooinda Lodge before a short minibus ride to our waiting boat. Armed with torches, we made our way to the vessel, ready for our adventure. I must admit, I was relieved to see how sturdy the boat looked, although we did have a laugh about the lifejackets on the roof — I'm not sure they would have been much help if we needed saving from the crocodiles!
As darkness slowly gave way to daylight, the river came alive. The birds began to stir, their calls echoing across the wetlands, and it wasn't long before we spotted our first crocodile. We were also incredibly lucky to witness a couple of brolgas dancing — such a beautiful sight. As the sun rose, the colours across the water were simply breathtaking, with reflections that looked more like paintings than real life.
Words really don't do this experience justice. Sometimes photographs tell the story far better, so I'll let the following images speak for themselves. I hope you enjoy them as much as we enjoyed the experience.
Katherine
After a couple of wonderful days exploring Kakadu, we continued our Northern Territory adventure to Katherine Gorge, located within Nitmiluk National Park.
There are several accommodation options in the area, but if you're looking for a little luxury, I highly recommend Cicada Lodge. The beautifully appointed, air-conditioned villas blend seamlessly into the natural surroundings, the restaurant was fantastic, and the swimming pool was a very welcome addition after a day of exploring.
Katherine Gorge itself was absolutely stunning. We chose the two-hour, two-gorge boat tour and were captivated by the towering rock formations, spectacular scenery and stories shared by our Indigenous guide.
We were also shown some of the locations used in the filming of Rogue, the 2007 Australian thriller about a rather terrifying saltwater crocodile. Perhaps one to watch after visiting the Northern Territory!
Fortunately, the waterways around Katherine are also home to freshwater crocodiles, which are generally far less intimidating than their saltwater cousins. Kayaking is possible in some sections of the gorge when conditions permit, although restrictions apply where saltwater crocodiles may be present.
While in Katherine, we also visited Katherine Hot Springs, a beautiful natural swimming spot popular with locals and visitors alike.
The warm, crystal-clear water winds through a lush, shaded setting, with several lovely spots to relax and enjoy a refreshing swim. There are good facilities nearby, and the springs are surprisingly spacious, making it easy to find a quieter little corner.
It was a wonderful way to unwind after our adventures in Nitmiluk National Park.
Bitter Springs
If we hadn't been told about Bitter Springs, I'm quite sure we would have driven straight past this little piece of paradise!
Tucked away in the Australian outback, Bitter Springs is a beautiful natural oasis near Mataranka. Surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and towering palms, this crystal-clear thermal spring feels like a hidden paradise.
From the car park, it's an easy 10-minute walk along a well-maintained pathway to the swimming area. There are also toilet facilities at the car park.
The colour and clarity of the water are simply incredible. The local council has done a wonderful job providing steps and handrails, making it easy to enter and exit the springs.
But what makes Bitter Springs particularly special is the gentle natural current. Rather than swimming, you can simply lie back, relax and let the warm water carry you downstream through the beautiful tropical surroundings.
A pool noodle comes in very handy here, and you'll find them for sale in many of the local shops!
At the end of the swimming section, steps lead you out of the water and onto a pathway that takes you back to the starting point. And if you're anything like us, you'll be heading straight back in for another float!
One of those unexpected little discoveries that makes travelling so memorable.
Mataranka
A little further along the road from Bitter Springs is Mataranka, home to another beautiful natural thermal pool.
While Bitter Springs is all about floating gently downstream, Mataranka Thermal Pool is more like a natural swimming pool, surrounded by towering palms and lush tropical vegetation. A wooden boardwalk takes you through the beautiful surroundings to the water, where you can enjoy another wonderfully relaxing experience.
With the distances involved in travelling through the Northern Territory, we decided to stay at Mataranka Homestead. It's a popular stop for caravanners and campers, but for those who prefer a few more creature comforts, there are also motel rooms and cabins available.
We chose the latter, and while the accommodation is fairly basic, it was clean, comfortable and perfectly suited to our stay.
One of the unexpected pleasures of Mataranka Homestead is the atmosphere. Wildlife wanders freely through the grounds, and the outdoor beer garden is a wonderful place to spend an evening. There's often live entertainment, good company and the opportunity to enjoy dinner and a glass of wine as the sun goes down.
On a previous visit, we were lucky enough to see Nathan "Whippy" Griggs perform his spectacular whip-cracking show. This time, we enjoyed a country music performance — a lovely way to finish another day exploring the Territory.
And for a little Australian film history, Mataranka Homestead has another surprise.
If you've ever watched We of the Never Never, you'll appreciate the opportunity to wander through the replica homestead associated with the film. It's a lovely reminder of the pioneering history of this remarkable part of Australia.
Mataranka may not offer five-star luxury, but it certainly offers something just as memorable — a genuine outback experience, beautiful natural surroundings and a relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to stay a little longer.
Litchfield National Park
Our final stop before returning to Darwin was Litchfield National Park, another spectacular part of the Northern Territory.
With its beautiful waterfalls, natural swimming holes and walking trails, Litchfield is somewhere you could easily spend several days exploring. Unfortunately, we only had time for a brief visit, but it was certainly enough to appreciate just how beautiful this national park is.
One of the more unusual sights is the incredible collection of magnetic termite mounds, rising from the landscape like natural sculptures. They're quite fascinating and definitely worth stopping to admire.
We continued on to Wangi Falls, a beautiful setting surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and towering rock formations. With picnic areas, a café, toilets and changing facilities, it's a lovely place to stop and spend some time.
And while the inviting water is certainly tempting, after travelling through crocodile country, it's hard not to feel just a little nervous when you see all those warning signs! Swimming is only permitted when the area has been declared safe and officially opened.
Litchfield was a wonderful final stop on our journey, and somewhere I would happily return to explore in more detail.
The Northern Territory – Our Tips & Recommendations
Hire a car: I highly recommend hiring a car when you arrive in Darwin, as taxis and Ubers can be limited. Choose a vehicle you'll be comfortable driving, particularly if you're planning a similar itinerary. There are some long distances to cover, but the scenery along the way is spectacular.
Don't miss the Yellow Water Cruise: This was an absolute highlight of our trip. My recommendation is the sunrise cruise, although I've heard the sunset cruise is equally spectacular. Cruises operate at various times throughout the day, and booking in advance is a good idea.
Stay at Cooinda Lodge: With a range of accommodation options, Cooinda is a comfortable, convenient and enjoyable base for exploring Kakadu, particularly if you're planning the Yellow Water Cruise. There's also a small general store and petrol station. If you're an Accor member, discounted meals and drinks may be an added bonus, depending on your membership benefits.
Buy a pool noodle: It might sound like an unusual travel tip, but trust me, you'll appreciate having one when floating through the beautiful thermal springs! They're available at local service stations and general stores.
Embrace the outback experience: Don't expect five-star luxury at every stop. This is the Australian outback, where the landscapes, wildlife, people and unexpected discoveries are what make the journey so special.
Sometimes, the greatest luxury isn't where you stay, but what you experience along the way.
