Everest Base Camp - A Stunning Adventure
Walking through a postcard is how I would describe our 14 day adventure in the Himalayas. Yes, it was tough, but the scenery was next level, and our guides and sherpa’s made it a magical experience.
Mt Everest.
Getting there
I think it is fair to say that the only luxury aspect of my Nepalese adventure was the flights to and from Kathmandu. Business class airfares always mean the holiday starts as soon as you get through security and immigration.
Kathmandu was our base for a day before we started our trek, so we visited The Monkey Temple and wandered through the colourful streets. It was fun, and gave us some insight into the Nepalese culture.
To start our Base Camp Trek, we first had to fly into Lukla - known as one of the world’s most dangerous airports. Our guide was fantastic and had all the logistics under control as we arrived at the small airport for our very small plane transfer - no business class here !!
The flight was actually quite pleasant. We had an amazing day for flying and visibility was excellent for that quick, sharp turn after landing. For me, the scariest part of the trip - until we have to return - was done. I could now enjoy what lay ahead.
The Trek Begins
I am not going to lie, the trek was hard. We walked a lot of uphill and the air was thin, but we were surrounded by the most majestic mountain range, and there were many times we just had to stop and take it all in - it felt surreal.
When we came to a suspension bridge, and started to doubt whether we could actually walk across it, we only had to remind ourselves that the alternative was to walk down and walk back up. That made the decision very easy!
It was interesting, though, when you were walking across one of the long bridges and a herd of yaks started crossing in the opposite direction. Guess who had right of way ? YES - the Yaks!! I did mention this was an adventure!!
Life on the trail
As I’ve already mentioned the hiking is uphill - at least until the return journey. The tracks are good but they can get busy. As well as trekkers, they are used to transport goods to the many villages in the mountains. It is quite normal to step aside and wait for a herd of yaks carrying supplies, or a drove of donkeys with their minders, to pass.
Sherpas also overtake us regularly, and it is amazing to see how strong and fit they are, - particularly when you see the enormous loads they are carrying . It certainly puts my little day pack into perspective!!
Our motto on the way to Base Camp is - Hike High, Sleep Low. We have a few days where we stay in the same accommodation but spend the day hiking uphill, before returning to sleep at a lower altitude. This helps enormously with acclimatisation.
Altitude sickness is a very real risk, and the best way to avoid it is to take your time - this isn’t a race. We also started taking altitude medication once we reached Namache Bazaar (3440 meters).
Our accommodation was all booked by the tour company, so we had no input other than requesting double or twin rooms. The rooms were very basic, and the facilities were shared. The closer we got to Base Camp, the worse the bathrooms became! Only two of our hotels had the option of a shower, and these had to be booked in as soon as we arrived. They were an absolute luxury when we managed to get one. Otherwise, we relied on special wipes we had purchased from trekking stores back home.
Our beds were basic, and we had our own sleeping bags, sheets and pillows, which were transported by the Sherpas. Luckily our days were tough, so it wasn’t hard to fall asleep. The nights were cold, and the hotels and guest houses supplied extra blankets, but my advice would be to get a good-quality sleeping bag with a high warmth rating.
The hotels and guest houses all had a common area, which was perfect for evening chats, and card games. They also had their own restaurant or dining room. Food wasn’t included in our package, but it was so inexpensive that no one minded. The food was actually delicious, and we enjoyed many dishes from dumplings and dal bhat to pizza - although we kept it vegetarian - no one wanted to risk a stomach bug!!
Our days were all about trekking, but there was a lot to see and do along the way. From little villages, where the locals would display and sell their handicrafts, to bakeries with delicious pastries, Coca Cola and Lavazza Coffee!! We stopped at Buddhist temples, spun prayer wheels and soaked up everything around us. As well as being physical our trek was scenic, cultural and spiritual.
Lunch was always enjoyable, often at a little garden restaurant - and of course, they all came with sensational views. They also had rest rooms - they weren’t anything special and sometimes very basic, but by this stage of the trek, they were definitely considered a luxury.
The people who made the journey
And of course our day-to-day journey went so smoothly because we had fantastic guides and Sherpas. We were so fortunate to have chosen Ace the Himalaya as our tour company, and we really scored to have Madan as our fearless leader- always wearing his cool reflector sunglasses! His knowledge of the mountains was phenomenal, and he made sure we were all enjoying ourselves. He was funny and entertaining, whilst always ensuring our safety was his number one priority.
You can’t really put a price on the Sherpas. They were incredibly strong, and just beautiful people. They would leave before we had even finished breakfast, to make sure our luggage was waiting for us at our next hotel. We were very grateful to have had such a wonderful team.
Everest Base Camp
After many days of trekking, and acclimatisation - we finally made it to Base Camp. The last few kilometres on the track were surprisingly crowded, and our guide told us that many people arrive in the region by helicopter to experience a “one day - Base Camp experience”. The trek is physically demanding, but mainly because of the thin air - we were at an altitude of 5,364 metres!
Base Camp is near the Khumbu Glacier, and the scenery is barren, with lots of rocks and ice. It was fascinating to see the dome tents of the brave climbers who are aiming to reach the summit of Mt Everest. Of course, for us this was our pinnacle, and we certainly enjoyed the celebrations of reaching Base Camp.
We made it!! Everest Base Camp
The Special Moments
There were lots of special moments along the way, but one that really stuck with me was our first sighting of Mt Everest. We were in Namche Bazaar and had an acclimatisation day. The day was magical and we did as we always did - we hiked up!!
First, we passed the Everest View Hotel ( the first stop for day trippers on a helicopter tour). This was a great vantage point for our first sighting of Mt Everest. Next, we hiked to the Hillary Memorial Site. The panoramic views were incredible, and we could see Mount Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. The memorial itself was very emotional.
Another special moment was when we stayed in Tengboche, home to the beautiful Buddhist monastery. Our guides and Sherpas invited us to attend a prayer service with them. It was a beautiful gesture and a very spiritual experience - something we felt incredibly privileged to be part of.
Another acclimatisation day always comes to mind. From Dingboche, the trek felt like we were walking through an oil painting. No more words needed.
While we could see snow on the mountains around us, being September and one of the peak hiking periods, we weren’t expecting it to actually snow. But it did! It was only a quick sprinkling before the blue sky returned, but enough for a snowball fight.
Seeing my niece’s reaction - she had never been in snow before - was priceless. Just another one of those magical moments.
The Climbers Memorial was a sombre sight. We came across it as we were heading to Lobuche. There were many shrines, prayer flags and plaques to honour the climbers and Sherpas who had paid the ultimate price in their quest to conquer Mt Everest and the surrounding mountains. This was a place where you understood the granduer and the dangers of the Himalayas.
Waking up at 4am to climb Kala Patthar and watch the sunrise over Mt. Everest - this was a birthday I will never forget!! On turning 50, I could honestly say I was on top of the World - WOW!!
I didn’t think the day could get much better, but we trekked to the village of Periche, where our accommodation house had set up a surprise birthday celebration. Complete with a birthday cake, traditional Nepalese ceremony and first dibs to have a shower - It was the perfect day and I felt very special.
And then there was Namche Bazaar. After the fairly basic accommodation along the trail, Namche felt almost luxurious. It had the best hotel of our trek, plenty of little shops and cafés - and an Irish Pub !!
We celebrated at the Irish Pub on the way back. Advertised by the locals as the World’s Highest Irish Pub - at 3445 metres - it had to be close!!
Was it worth it?
Absolutely, there is nothing that can truly explain the experience of trekking to Mt Everest Base Camp, but I hope I have given you a small insight into our adventure. The sheer beauty of the Himalayas, combined with remarkable Nepalese people, is what really made this trip unforgettable.
It wasn’t luxurious, but sometimes luxury isn’t the focus - and it makes you appreciate what you have even more. Trekking to Base Camp was physically and mentally demanding. It wasn’t a walk in the park, but it was a walk in one of the world’s most scenic destinations.
Recommendations
Train - this is not a walk you can do without months of training. If you are able, altitude training would be a great option. Also, hike lots of hills!!
Visit your GP or a travel Doctor - Speak with your doctor about altitude sickness and whether preventative medication is appropriate for you.
Clothing - make sure you have good quality mountain clothes - and layers! It can get hot and it can get really cold very quickly. There are shops to buy mountain gear in Kathmandu and in Namche Bazaar.
Hiking boots - I won’t make a recommendation on brands or styles, just make sure you have strong, sturdy and comfortable footwear. Break them in well before doing the trek. The right socks are important too.
Day pack - if you are with a company that provides Sherpas, you still need a day pack for water, snacks, wet weather gear, and other personal items. I have my favourite brand, but again, the best way to get a pack that suits you, is to go to a trekking store and get advice from the experts, and try them out.
Book flights home a couple of days out from when you finish your trek. The unpredictable weather of the Himalayas often results in flight delays and cancellations from Lukla. It is nice not to be stressing about international travel.
Bring a travel size roller, or elastic bands for stretching. I highly recommend stretching every day at the completion of your hike.
A deck of cards, UNO, a good book, or ipad with books or movies downloaded - these are great for your afternoons and evenings. You do have spare time, and interestingly, a few of the guest houses do show movies, but when we were there, they all showed the same Everest Disaster Movie.
Everest Base Camp - 2018