Portuguese Camino - Coastal Route
Part 2 - Porto to Santiago de Compostela
The second part of our Camino takes us along the western coastline of Portugual, and this time six of our friends have joined us. The scenery has changed dramatically and so does our food focus, with plenty of seafood-inspired meals along the way. The track is busier, and the hills are fewer, but the distances and the terrain ensure we continue to challenge ourselves.
My mantra remains the same, the Camino is whatever you want it to be. Everyone had different ideas about what they wanted from the journey, and I think it is important to understand and respect that. Our group travelled at a different pace, but we often met for morning tea and lunch. The afternoons and evenings are where we came together to share a drink, a meal and discuss the day.
We had a lot of fun as a group along the way, and I’ll share a little of that with you in a video at the end of this post.
I hope you enjoy seeing a different side of the Camino - and sharing in the excitement as we finally arrive in Santiago de Compostela.
DAY 19 MATOSINHOS TO PÒVOA DO VARZIM
30.5 KM (47,500 steps)
Matosinhos is a coastal town on the outskirts of Porto, and it is where we started our Coastal Camino. We spent most of the day walking alongside the Atlantic Ocean. The sky was blue but the wind was quite brutal, making the temperature feel very cool. It was very different from what we had experienced over the past two and a half weeks. Also of note, there are lots of pilgrims starting out from Matosinhos - backpacks and shells are clean and shiny, as are many of their shoes!
The scenery was stunning, and we loved walking through the eccentric fishing villages. There were plenty of beachside cafés to chose from for morning tea and lunch. Most of our walk was on wooden boardwalk, although we did question the quality in some areas! Along the way it was nice to have a chat with the locals and fellow pilgrims.
It was a long day, but the beautiful villages and amazing scenery made the kilometers much easier. We were able to break-up the afternoon by stopping to watch a triathalon along the way.
Our four star beachfront hotel again ticked all the boxes - a comfortable bed, a lovely bar for a celebratory drink, and a really nice restaurant made the long day worthwhile. There was a swimming pool that some of our group used, but unfortunately it wasn’t the usual heated indoor one that I had grown accustomed to.
DAY 20 WALK TO FÁO
17.23 KM (26,200 steps)
It was a much shorter walk today, and the wind had dropped off, which made it very pleasant. We started off walking along the beach, on wooden boardwalk, before veering off and heading inland for a short while. This was lovely, as we were able to admire the beautiful houses with their amazing vegetable and flower gardens. We also had a short walk through a eucalyptus forest - where we were able to stamp our pilgrim passports.
We arrived at our destination around lunchtime - where we found the most perfect place to stop and eat. As we were only a kilometre away from our accommodation, we decide to make it a long lunch and enjoy the beautiful garden restaurant.
Our four star hotel ticked all the boxes again, with the added bonus of having its own bowling alley - and there was nothing quite like a little competitive game amongst our group! The area around our hotel is beautiful, right on the beach., but the only downside was that most of the restaurants were closed on our particular night, however, we did find a lovely Italian restaurant and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
DAY 21 WALK TO VIANA DO CASTELO
30.2 KM (47,000 steps)
Wow!! Today’s walk was tough. We thought the Coastal Route was all wooden boardwalks and beautiful paths - we were soooooo wrong! Today we found ourselves walking through sand dunes, over rocks and crossing one very deep creek, - to be fair, the boys put on their superhero capes, and piggybacked us across the water. There were also a few good sized hills thrown in for good measure.
With every challenging day, there were still those moments that made you stop and appreciate the beauty around you. A gorgeous swimming spot with shady trees, and a magical waterfall were my highlights today. We took our time here just to enjoy the scenery.
Our destination for the night was Viana do Castelo. We could see it in the distance, but first we had to cross one very long bridge over the Lima River. The town looked beautiful, and had some interesting attractions, including a hilltop church reached by funicular, but I can honestly say, the whole group was shattered. We just wanted to get to our accommodation.
Our saving grace? The hotel had a heated indoor pool and spa. Perfect.
DAY 22 WALK TO VILA PRAIA DA ÂNCORA
21.3 KM (33, 500 steps)
Let me tell you, there is nothing quite like waking up to the sound of rain…and not in a good way! From one challenging day to another, we found ourselves leaving our hotel all kitted up in our wet-weather gear, as we walked out of town.
To be fair, the walk was beautiful. The cobblestone streets of Viana do Castelo are home to some amazing properties with spectacular gardens. We walked these quaint back streets for a while before we arriving at the trail through another eucalyptus forest. There were plenty of inclines and declines, but we also came across a beautiful rainforest with lovely waterways.
Lunch was at a beautiful outdoor restaurant, just after we emerged from the forest. We were very close to our destination, so naturally, a glass of wine with lunch was called for - we also had to celebrate that the sun had finally come out! After chatting with some fellow pilgrims, we start the final three kilometre walk into town.
Our hotel was very boutique - and I liked it a lot. It had a swimming pool, which we all enjoyed, while the boys had their first swim in the Atlantic Ocean. Our hosts recommended a fantastic seafood restaurant on the beachfront, and it did not disappoint. It was a lovely place to spend our last night in Portugal.
DAY 23 WALK TO CAMINHA, TAXI BOAT TO SPAIN, WALK TO A GUARDA.
13.3 KM (19,500 steps)
The sun was out and our day started with a lovely walk along the beachfront to the town of Caminha. There were a lot of pilgrims walking early this morning, but it is so they can get the taxi boat over to Spain. We were well prepared, and had booked our ride well in advance, so we were guaranteed a departure time. We made sure we were in Caminha early, and this allowed us time to look around the boutique shops and have a coffee and our last pastel de nata.
The taxi boat ride was short, and fast but it is also a lot of fun. Before we knew it, we were in a new country - Spain. Immediately you can see the differences between Portugal and Spain. The signs and arrows are different, more expensive looking and more detailed, and they are more frequent - no excuse to get lost now.
The trek is short, but uphill through some beautiful backstreets, before we reach another eucalyptus forest. The views and scenery are stunning, and we don’t have long before we start to descend into the town of A Guarda.
Our accommodation was an old monastery of the Benedictine Order. It was an amazing place, and we felt very privileged to be staying there. Our rooms were not quite ready - but we as we had arrived early, - with only minimal kilometres on the agenda - we found a beautiful restaurant with amazing water views, fantastic meals and refreshing beverages.
For dinner, we firstly visited a charcuteria - where we were able to purchase a selection of curred meats and specialty cheeses - then we found a spot near the water and we had a lovely picnic as the sunset. A lovely first day in Spain.
DAY 24 WALK TO OIA
13.6 KM (21,000 steps)
Another short day, so we took advantage of itwith a sleep-in and leisurely breakfast. We ate in the beautiful courtyard of the monastery and just took it all in - there was definitely something spiritual about that place.
Our walk started in the middle of town, and we followed the pathway along cobblestone streets, past many more churches and quirky statues and monuments, before rounding a corner to the most spectacular ocean views. We were still walking alongside the Atlantic Ocean, but the wooden boardwalks, and white sand were gone, replaced with gravel pathways, rugged rocks, wild grasses and lots of wildflowers, including wild hydrangeas. Our lunch break was at a café along the way, and we didn’t need to rush. Instead we sat back and took in the scenery.
When we finally left, we didn’t have too far to go. The very small village of Oia was our destination, and our accommodation was very boutique, in a house that was built in 1699. We even had access to its “secret garden” - a beautiful block of land above the ocean, with fruit trees and a magical vegetable garden. It is a great place to come together and reflect on our journey so far.
The boys attempted to swim in the ocean, but as the tide was low, they looked like they were playing in the rock pools.
Dinner was at a tapas restaurant, where we enjoyed local seafood and wine, while watching the sun set over the Atlantic Ocean.
DAY 25 WALK TO BAIONA
19.4 KM (29,600 steps)
Breakfast was incredibly special - it was home cooked, whatever we wanted, and it was all served on fine china I’m sure our hosts mother was in charge of the kitchen, as everything was made fresh, and even the orange juice was freshly squeezed. I especially loved that our communication, although through a translation app, was still warm and full of humour.
Outside, the ocean mist hadn’t quite evaporated, which set the scene for a magical day. The scenery was a lot like the day before, rugged and beautiful. After a short morning tea stop, we hit the track again and alternated between main roads and ocean paths, before crossing the main road and going up!!
We walked through a pine forest, with orange butterflies everywhere. There were many hills, but with our destination in sight, we kept going.
We arrived into Baiona - a town credited as being the first European port to hear about the discovery of America . As it was lunchtime, we stopped at a beautiful restaurant and enjoyed some of the local cuisine, - sardines, flat breads and sangrias.
After checking in to our accommodation, we explored the narrow streets of the old town. A Michelin-recommended restaurant for dinner did not disappoint, and the standout dish was definitely the Seafood Paella.
DAY 26 WALK TO VIGO
28.4 KM (41,000 steps)
It was to be another long day of walking, so we left early and followed the cobblestone streets out of Baiona. There were a lot more pilgrims around, as Baiona is a popular starting point to do the Camino - just under 130 km and only six days of walking.
We had a few more hills to climb before we found ourselves on flat ground again, walking around the bay and looking back at Baiona. The scenery was really beautiful. It wasn’t too long before we found ourselves beachfront - even walking on the sand for a short time, past surfers, and little fishing boats.
We walked most of the day through seaside holiday villages, with their resorts and cafés buzzing with locals. The ocean looked so inviting, and if we still didn’t have 10 km to walk, we may have stopped for a quick swim.
Our entrance into Vigo is somewhat underwhelming, as we were walking in through an industrial estate. However, once we made our way into the city centre, we were very excited. The vibe had changed and we were now in a bustling European City - it looked great. We stopped for some well-earned pastries before heading off in search of our hotel. Our accommodation lived up to expectations, and the concierge helped us find a lovely tapas restaurant for dinner - a great way to end our day.
DAY 27 WALK TO ARCADE
23.1 KM (34,600 steps)
Today was hot!! and we had lots of hills to conquer, both in the towns and the forests. Of note, there were so many more pilgrims on the track - it was starting to feel crowded. Vigo is 101km from Santiago de Compstela, and as 100km is the minimum distance you can walk to qualify for the Compostela, and obtain your official certificate at the end, - a lot of people start here.
We walked along cobblestone streets, and the views back towards Vigo were spectacular. Our initial forest walk had plenty of shade, so it was cool and beautiful, with cascading waterfalls along the pathway. The ascend was gradual, and I really enjoyed this section.
We descended into the Barrio de O Berbes, an area along the river with lovely restaurants, known for the oysters that are farmed nearby. We stopped here for a picnic lunch - courtesy of our Vigo hotel- tuna or chicken / salad baguettes. It was a beautiful spot, and we saw many pilgrims lining up at different Albergues - trying to secure accommodation for the night. I was very thankful ours was comfortable and all pre-booked!
There were more hills and forests to contend with, and we were very grateful for the water fountains along the way. We eventually had a downhill trek into the very small town of Arcade. Our hotel was comfortable but not four-star, however, I was thankful I didn’t have to line up at or stay in an Albergue. There is a bar and restaurant attached to our hotel, so we were all very happy.
DAY 28 WALK TO PONTEVEDRA
13.5 KM (19,500 steps)
It was a very easy and enjoyable day today, despite the trails being somewhat crowded.
After leaving Arcade, we walked along cobblestone streets and down to an ancient Roman Bridge. The blue sky and mirror-like water made the scene breathtaking.
Not long after, we entered a rainforest. It was beautiful and cool, with cute little bridges and pretty waterfalls.
Then, before we knew it, we were in the town of Pontevedra - our home for the night. Our hotel was back to our usual standards, and they even allowed us to check-in early. This gave us time to explore the town, have lunch, visit the laundromat and somehow, some of the boys even managed to get a haircut.
Dinner was special, at yet another Michelin recommended seafood restaurant. We were all getting very excited….only 3 days to go.
DAY 29 WALK TO CALDAS DE REIS
21.2 KM (32,000 steps)
We left Pontevedra, and walked through the beautiful old town. The morning was cool and misty, which made for perfect walking conditions, but we knew this would be short-lived, and it was not long before both the blue sky and hot sun appeared.
We walked through beautiful forests and vineyards. There were a lot more options for rest breaks, and some of the cafés looked so inviting with their big shady trees near babbling brooks. The number of pilgrims was still huge, and it was hard to believe that we were walking in the low season.
The leading pilgrims in our group, found us the perfect spot to stop for lunch. The food was great, as was the Aperol Spritz.
After lunch, we checked into our hotel, which was not my favourite, but I kept telling myself that a comfortable bed and a private bathroom were luxuries that not many on this journey had access to - and I was truly grateful.
The town was very pretty, and an Alfresco dinner and drinks were very enjoyable. We had less than 50 km to go !!!
DAY 30 WALK TO LESTROVE
19.65 KM (31,200 steps)
It was the penultimate day, and we were very excited. Not only were we nearing the end, it was State of Origin day - an important day for rugby league fans in Australia. We needed to be at a lunch stop before midday so we could watch the football game live, which meant we started out very early.
The day was basically a repeat of yesterday - cobblestone streets, lush forests, vineyards, farms, vegetable gardens and cute little stone churches. We were just walking faster!
We did find a restaurant, and had the perfect set-up to watch the game. Unfortunately, only one person in our group was happy with the result!!
From lunch, it was only a short walk to our guest house. Our accommodation was beautiful and ticked all the boxes - we even had a swimming pool. We had an early dinner as we wanted to leave early the following morning and try to reach Santiago de Compostela before the temperature hit 32 degrees.
We are almost there!!!
DAY 31 WALK TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
28.5 KM (40,900 steps)
It was a very early start for our final day - 6 am and it was still dark. We weren’t surprised to see that many other pilgrims had the same idea, and the paths were already crowded. We did manage to get through 10 km before the day really heated up, so that was a bonus.
The scenery was still lovely, but it was different seeing it as the sun rose. We passed through small farming communities , watching and hearing the animals wake. There were still plenty of forests to walk through, and the atmosphere amongst the pilgrims was joyous and exciting. Along the way we come across different musicians, who made the experience even better. Special mentions to the bag pipe player and the piano man.
Nothing can explain the excitement and anticipation when Santiago first came into view. We stopped here for a short while just to take it all in. We still had a few kilometres to go, but suddenly we could see the finish line.
Our group came together as we walk the final stretch through the streets of Santiago de Compostela - towards the cathedral. As soon as we reached the square, the emotions became overwhelming - but in a good way. We hugged, we cheered, we even danced and we certainly soaked up the feeling of an amazing achievement.
This was my marathon, and I did it!!!
Afterwards, we headed down to the official Pilgrims Office and received our certificates. The celebrations continued with Aperols / beers and paella.
Of course the celebrations didn’t end there, we had dinner pre-booked at a Michelin-star restaurant, and it was outstanding - definitely the best restaurant we had eaten at on the entire trip.
The Things I Loved
Everything from part 1.
Travelling with friends - we all did our own thing during the day, but it was a lot of fun sharing our afternoons and evenings together. We also had plenty of laughs along the way.
The water fountains - there was always fresh, free-flowing water available on the track. I especially appreciated this during part 2 of my Camino, when the weather was much warmer.
The Things I Didn’t Love
The crowds - this part of the Camino was definitely busier. I enjoyed walking and talking with different people, but in some areas, your pace was dictated by those walking in front of you. More people also meant queues for coffee and toilet stops.
Recommendations ( in addition to part 1)
Pick up your pilgrim passport from the Porto Pilgrim Office - just around the corner from the Porto Cathedral. The volunteers are incredibly helpful, and you can even get your first stamp there.
Make sure you collect 2 stamps per day from 100km outside of Santiago de Compostelo - and yes, they do check them!
Stamps can be obtained from your accommodation, and then during the day. Look out for the quirky options, such as the piano man and the local police. If you want something fancy, there are options along the way where you can get a wax stamp - but the line up for these are usually long, and you are expected to pay.
Pre-Register for your official final certificate - the Compostela. This can be done during the last couple of days of your walk or just before you enter the office. www.oficinadelperegrino.com Save the QR code and scan it at the kiosk. You will be asked to provide your Pilgrim Passport for authentification, and then you will be given your certificate (after payment of course!) You don’t have to do it this way, but then you will have to line up and fill out all the information on computers they have set up - it is just more time consuming that way.
Soak up the atmosphere as you enter the square. Finishing the Camino is a wonderful achievement - take a moment to stop, look around and enjoy. You’ve earned it!!
Coastal Camino video - a bit of fun along the way….