Switzerland in summer is spectacular, but add the mighty Matterhorn to the landscape and suddenly you're living in a postcard. With breathtaking alpine trails, picture-perfect villages and scenery that seems almost too beautiful to be real, Zermatt is a destination that effortlessly impresses.
Days spent hiking amongst the mountains, followed by delicious Swiss cuisine and, of course, a well-earned Hugo Spritz — it's the perfect combination of adventure and indulgence.
The Village of Zermatt
Zermatt is famously car-free, although you'll still see plenty of small electric vehicles making their way through the village. Most visitors arrive by train, and we caught the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn from Visp, enjoying a scenic journey of just over an hour.
Stepping out of the train station felt like arriving in a storybook. Traditional Swiss chalets line the streets, with spectacular alpine scenery in every direction.
We stayed at Le Mirabeau Resort & Spa, a lovely hotel conveniently located close to the train station and funicular, yet tucked away from the busier parts of the village. I'd happily recommend it, particularly the Junior Suite with Matterhorn View. Waking up to that magnificent mountain each morning was a highlight in itself. In fact, I could have quite happily spent a few days just enjoying the view!
Zermatt has a wonderful energy, with bustling cafés and restaurants, designer boutiques, souvenir shops, mountain sports stores and, naturally, plenty of Swiss chocolatiers. You could easily spend an entire day browsing the shops or simply watching the world go by over an Aperol Spritz.
Adding to the village's charm are the famous Valais Blackneck goats, which are herded through the streets twice daily during the summer months as they move between pastures. Watching these rather magnificent creatures wander through town is quite a sight!
The Matterhorn Museum, located in the heart of the village, offers an insight into Zermatt's mountaineering history. Throughout the village, you'll also discover reminders of the courage, triumphs and tragedies associated with climbing one of the world's most iconic mountains.
Hiking beneath the Matterhorn
For us, Zermatt was all about the hiking, and we were fortunate to enjoy three glorious days of blue skies and spectacular alpine scenery.
The 5 Lakes Walk — 10.5 km
Our first adventure was the beautiful 5 Lakes Walk, a picturesque trail winding past five alpine lakes, with the mighty Matterhorn frequently dominating the skyline. At approximately 10.5 km, it was a wonderful introduction to hiking in the region and, without doubt, my favourite of our three walks.
We began with a short stroll from our hotel to the Sunnegga funicular, where we purchased a combination hiking ticket. A four-minute ride took us up to Sunnegga, followed by a gondola to Blauherd, the starting point of our hike.
Before setting off, we made a quick stop at the mountain restaurant, where the outdoor terrace offered magnificent views of the Matterhorn. Not a bad place to enjoy a drink before hitting the trails!
The walk itself is predominantly flat or gently downhill, following a mixture of gravel paths and mountain trails. The route is well signposted, making it relatively easy to navigate. But this is definitely not a hike to rush. With sparkling lakes, alpine meadows and extraordinary mountain views, there are countless places to pause, take photographs or simply soak up the scenery. A picnic would be a lovely addition.
Two of the lakes, Grünsee and Leisee, are popular swimming spots during summer. Grünsee, known as the Green Lake, offers a more natural alpine swimming experience, while Leisee is particularly accessible and ideal for a refreshing dip. We hadn't packed our swimmers or towels, so we could only admire the inviting water from the shore!
Our circuit finished back at Sunnegga, where the funicular took us down to Zermatt, with the return journey included in our hiking ticket.
Gorner Gorge & Furi Suspension Bridge Loop — 10.7 km
Our second hike combined the dramatic Gorner Gorge with the Furi Suspension Bridge, a 10.7 km loop offering a completely different perspective of Zermatt's spectacular landscape.
The walk began at the opposite end of the village, near the Matterhorn Express gondola station. For us, that meant a few extra kilometres on foot before we even reached the gorge, but we certainly weren't complaining. Wandering through the charming streets of Zermatt was all part of the experience.
There is a small entrance fee to Gorner Gorge, where a series of wooden walkways and some rather steep staircases wind their way through the narrow rock formations. Although the gorge section itself is only around 200 metres long, it's quite spectacular. The reward is the sight and sound of powerful glacial waters rushing through the ancient rock formations below.
From the gorge, we continued towards the Furi Suspension Bridge, passing alpine wildflowers and traditional Swiss chalets along the way. As we approached the bridge, the landscape changed to peaceful pine forest, adding yet another dimension to the walk.
And then came the bridge! Stretching approximately 100 metres across the gorge, it's certainly not for the faint-hearted. There's a long way down, but if you're feeling adventurous, the views and the thrill of crossing make it well worth the effort.
On our return towards Zermatt, we stopped at a mountain café for a refreshing drink and some delicious Swiss cheese. After a morning of hiking, it was the perfect way to finish another memorable day in the Alps.
The Gourmet Trail - No. 6 — 4.8km
Our third hike combined two of our favourite things — spectacular alpine scenery and exceptional food!
The Gourmet Trail takes you through the beautiful mountain hamlet of Findeln, home to several renowned restaurants celebrated for their excellent cuisine. With a relatively easy to moderate downhill walk, it's a wonderful way to combine hiking with a little indulgence.
We had booked lunch at Chez Vrony, so our plans centred around enjoying a leisurely meal at this iconic mountain restaurant. However, for those wanting to experience more of Findeln's culinary offerings, there is also the option of purchasing a Gourmet Pass, allowing you to enjoy different courses at several restaurants along the trail. Definitely something I'd consider next time!
Once again, we started at the Sunnegga funicular. After the short four-minute ride up the mountain, we set off towards Findeln, approximately 1.3 km downhill. This particular walk came with an unexpected soundtrack — the gentle ringing of Swiss cowbells. It doesn't get much more Swiss than that!
You can read about our wonderful Chez Vrony dining experience here.
After lunch, we continued downhill towards Zermatt, following beautiful forest trails. Some sections were quite steep, but the scenery made it a thoroughly enjoyable walk. There is also the option of returning uphill to the Sunnegga funicular, which is a shorter route, although it does involve a climb.
While perhaps not as physically demanding as our previous two hikes, this was certainly no less memorable. A beautiful alpine walk, a little exercise to justify our indulgent lunch, and another wonderful day in Zermatt.
The things I loved
The village of Zermatt — Car-free streets, charming cafés and restaurants, beautiful boutiques and wonderful people-watching opportunities. There's a lovely atmosphere here, and it's easy to spend a few hours simply wandering or enjoying an Aperol Spritz.
Our accommodation — Le Mirabeau Resort & Spa was an excellent choice. Beautiful rooms, friendly and attentive staff, a fantastic breakfast and spectacular Matterhorn views. With an indoor and outdoor pool and a luxurious Swiss chalet atmosphere, it's somewhere I'd happily stay again.
The hiking — This was undoubtedly a highlight. The trails are well signposted, the scenery is extraordinary, and there's an impressive variety of walks to suit different interests and abilities. With trains, gondolas and funiculars providing access to the mountains, exploring the region is wonderfully convenient.
The food — Zermatt has no shortage of excellent restaurants and cafés, from casual mountain stops to memorable fine dining experiences. Our favourite was undoubtedly Chez Vrony, where the combination of wonderful food, spectacular views and alpine atmosphere made for a very special afternoon.
Getting there — The train journey from Visp was comfortable, easy and incredibly scenic. Arriving in Zermatt by rail felt like part of the experience rather than simply a means of getting there.
The things I didn’t love
The price tag — There's no denying that Switzerland is expensive! Accommodation, dining and transport can all add up rather quickly. My advice? Try not to convert everything back into Australian dollars. Sometimes the best experiences are worth a little indulgence, and you really can't put a price on wonderful memories.
Missing the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise — We'd saved this excursion for our final day, but unfortunately the weather had other plans. With the lifts closed, our journey to the highest mountain station in Europe wasn't to be. Disappointing, of course, but just another reason to return to Zermatt one day!
Recommendations
Consider a Swiss Travel Pass — If you're travelling around Switzerland for several days, it's worth comparing the available rail passes. The Swiss Travel Pass covers much of the country's public transport network and offers discounts on many mountain excursions. Check which routes and lifts are included before purchasing.
Choose the left-hand side of the train — When travelling from Visp to Zermatt on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn, we particularly enjoyed the views from the left-hand side. A little tip for anyone making the same journey!
Book mountain restaurants in advance — Popular restaurants such as Chez Vrony can book out, particularly during the summer months. If there's somewhere special you'd like to dine, I'd recommend reserving a table well before your visit.
Allow some flexibility for the weather — Mountain conditions can change quickly, and gondolas or excursions may close unexpectedly. If there's a particular experience high on your wish list, try not to leave it until your final day.
Zermatt exceeded our expectations in so many ways. From the spectacular hiking trails and picture-perfect village to the wonderful food and unforgettable Matterhorn views, it was a beautiful combination of adventure and indulgence. We may have missed one experience, but we certainly left with plenty of wonderful memories — and every reason to return.